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Backyard Putting Green Installation in Denver

A green that putts true, not one that just looks like a green — shaped base, putting-grade turf, fringe, and cups placed for the shots you actually want to practice.

  • Layout staked on site so you walk the footprint before we dig
  • Base compacted to tight tolerances and checked for drainage — Denver clay doesn't forgive a lazy base
  • Putting-grade turf with a short pile, plus a longer fringe if you want to chip onto it
  • Cups placed for the practice you want, not a formula
  • PFAS-free turf only

Get a free estimate

Tell us what you’re working with. We’ll walk the property and give you a real number.

No obligation. We walk the property, scope the work, and give you a real number — we’ll also tell you what’s worth keeping before we pull anything out.

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What’s included

01

Design walk: size, shape, cup count, fringe, and how the green sits in the rest of the yard.

02

Perimeter staked on site so you can adjust the shape before excavation.

03

Excavation, aggregate base compacted in lifts, contours shaped, and drainage verified.

04

Putting surface turf laid and seamed; fringe turf installed as a separate product.

05

Cups set, edges locked to a border, infill brushed in and dialed for roll.

06

A walkthrough of the little maintenance a green needs.

Putting greens start from our artificial turf minimum of $10 per square foot and run above it — the turf is a specialty product, base tolerances are tighter, and shaping, fringe, and cups add handwork. Shape complexity moves the price most. We quote after staking the layout with you.

Why most backyard greens putt badly

A putting green is a base with turf on top, and the base is what you're really paying for. The ball reads every flaw in it. A low spot that you'd never notice on a turf lawn turns into a putt that breaks for no reason.

That's why we build putting greens differently from landscape turf. The base is compacted to tighter tolerances, shaped with the contours you want (or dead flat, if that's what you want), and checked for drainage before any turf goes down. On Denver clay, drainage isn't automatic — water that can't leave the base softens it, and a soft base means an uneven green by next spring.

Design choices that matter

Shape. A kidney or free-form shape reads as a green; a rectangle in the corner reads as a mat. The shape also decides where the interesting putts are.

Cups. Placement matters more than count. We set cups to give you uphill, downhill, and breaking putts from the spots you'll actually stand.

Fringe and surrounds. A ring of longer-pile fringe makes the green look finished and gives you somewhere to chip from. Beyond the fringe, decomposed granite, flagstone, or planting ties the green into the yard. See rock & decomposed granite and hardscaping.

Speed. Pile, density, and infill set how fast it rolls. For a backyard green, a touch slower than tournament speed makes for better practice.

The build

  1. Stake it. We lay out the perimeter on site so you can walk it and adjust before anything is dug.
  2. Base. Excavate, install and compact aggregate base in lifts, shape contours, and verify drainage.
  3. Turf. Lay the putting surface, seam it if the green is wider than a roll, and install fringe as a separate product with a clean transition.
  4. Finish. Set cups, lock the edges to a border, brush in infill, and roll-test.

A green in a water-wise yard

A putting green is one of the places where synthetic turf genuinely earns its footprint — you can't get a true roll from living grass without a lot of water and daily mowing. The best projects pair a green with a planted xeriscape around it, so the yard stays cool, green, and alive everywhere you're not putting.

A note on where greens go: this page is about private backyards. On HOA common property and commercial sites, Colorado's SB24-005 limits new artificial turf from 2026 (athletic fields are exempt) — see commercial & HOA.

For more on turf in general, see artificial turf installation.

Common questions

How big should a backyard putting green be?
Big enough for the putts you want to practice. A single cup works on a small green but gets repetitive fast; two cups is the practical minimum for most backyards; three or four cups need a noticeably larger footprint to give each putt room. We stake the perimeter on site so you can see it in your yard before committing.
How is putting green turf different from regular artificial turf?
Regular landscape turf has a longer, softer pile built to look lush. Putting turf has a short, dense pile so the ball tracks straight, with sand infill that sets the roll speed. Fringe is a third product with a longer pile, used around the edge for chipping and to transition to the rest of the yard.
How fast will it roll?
Roll speed depends on pile, density, and infill. For a backyard green, slightly slower than a tournament green is the right call — on a small surface, a very fast green sends every missed putt off the edge. Infill can be adjusted after install to tune it.
Does it drain after a storm?
It has to, or the base softens and the surface goes out of level. Denver clay doesn't drain on its own, so the base is built to carry water through and away, and we check drainage before the turf goes down.
What maintenance does a putting green need?
Very little. Brush it occasionally to keep fibers upright, blow off leaves and debris, and top off infill every few years on a heavily used green. Cups can loosen over Denver freeze-thaw and are easy to reset or replace.

Where we work

We’re Denver-based and work across the metro. Water rules and rebates depend on your provider — each city page covers yours.

Ready to get a number?

We design and build water-wise landscapes across the Denver metro. Free walkthrough, honest scope, no pressure.